|







Read about an excursion to Fond du Lac, WI where Carry Nation, a member
of the temperance movement, performed one of her infamous "hachetations".
More Journeys
To The Islands A Double Tribute New Orleans Oconomowoc U505 Submarine Freedom Trail Topolobampo Indian Lakes Peterson Cottage Amana Colonies Bourbon Trail Spirit of Peoria Springfield St. Louis
|

By the latter part of
the 19th and even into the early 20th century , The distillery business was
going along rather well... at least until someone decided that distilled
spirits were evil. Prohibition in 1920 (The 18th Amendment to the
Constitution and The Volstead Act... "a grand and failed social experiment")
put a real damper on things -- and distilleries -- until it was repealed by
law in December of 1933 after the election of Franklin Delano
Roosevelt. Today, more different types of distilled products exist
than times that the Chicago Cubs have failed to win a world series.
Whisky? Well there is Rye Whisky, Scotch Whisky, Irish Whisky,
Canadian (blended) Whisky... for example. But the one in which we are
truly interested is Bourbon Whisky, recognized as "A
Distinctive Product of the United States" by an act of Congress in 1964.
The law really doesn't say that it has to be made in Kentucky
(although ~99% is), however -- no whiskey can legally
call itself Bourbon unless it is
-
made in the
United States
-
made from a grain
recipe that is at least 51% corn
-
distilled at less
than 160 proof from a fermented grain mash
-
matured in new,
charred American White Oak barrels at no more than 125 proof for a
minimum of two years (if aged for less than four years, it must say so
on the label)
-
a product to
which nothing is added in the final stage except pure water -- no
artificial flavors, colors or additives of any kind are allowed.
-
bottled at 80
proof or higher
Now those are some
pretty stringent standards! Even so, it is extremely easy to get one's
bourbon to taste different, just by tweaking the recipe even a wee skosh,
because of all the variables in the recipe. The main ingredients are
water, corn, rye and/or wheat, malted barley and yeast. To start with,
water is first and foremost the ingredient that allows Kentucky to be the
one place where all of the bourbon in the United States has always been
made... Why? What makes it so special?
Geologically, the
vast majority of Kentucky is covered by sedimentary rocks: sandstone and
limestone to be exact. Outcroppings of limestone in the northern
portion of the state are perfect for the water needed for bourbon. The
limestone filters nasty minerals -- like iron -- out of it, while adding
calcium to it. Not only is the calcium necessary for the strong bones
needed by thoroughbred racing horses, it also aids the yeast in the
fermentation process. Without great water, you simply can't get great
bourbon.
The grains --
selected for quality and mostly from Kentucky -- are milled (ground into a
fine, flour-like meal) and then cooked for a short period with the
limestone-filtered water. During this time, enzymes in the malted barley
magically (well... OK, chemically) convert the starches from the corn and
rye into fermentable sugars. All this of course must happen at
specific temperatures. At the precise time, yeast (each distiller
claims his strain of yeast is best and the variety is a closely-guarded
secret) is added -- along with part of a previous batch (called "setback")
--
and the whole shootin' match -- now called mash -- is pumped into
vats/tanks (some as large as 85,000 gallons!) where the fermenting then
takes place. For perhaps as long as a week, the yeast chow down on the
the sugar like there's no tomorrow, and there are two natural by-products:
carbon dioxide and... alcohol! The resulting sour mash is about six to
eight percent ABV (alcohol by volume) at this point.
The sour mash (so
named for its level of acidity and an original formula likely supplied by
Dr. James Crow more than 200 years ago) is pumped into what is called a beer
still and the first stage in distilling begins. At this point,
depending on the distiller and recipe, the mash can be separated from or
left together with the other liquids. But the distilling process at
this point ultimately separates the alcohol from the water; the used mash is
either dried or not, and sold to farmers as animal feed... Nothing
wasted here!
By now, the ABV has risen to about twenty to perhaps
thirty percent. Now we're getting somewhere! The liquid is
distilled again and the result is a product that is fifty to sixty percent
(100 -120 proof) ABV and referred to as "high wine". A final
distillation, creating an even cleaner and crisper result, delivers what is
affectionately called "white dog" -- with the kick of a mule -- and up to
79% ABV or 158 proof. Remember that it must be distilled at less
than 160 proof.
The only thing left
to do is to put the stuff into those nice, toasted/charred, American White
Oak barrels, seal it in and... wait, for many years -- depending on the
desired quality, color, character, taste and aromas that have been imparted
to the bourbon while in the barrel. Each flavor originally supplied by
the grains, the water, the yeast and the cooking and distillation processes,
will now have time to age and mature. Each year, Kentucky experiences
some extremes in temperature that cause the bourbon to move either into the
oak during the hot summer months or back out of the wood during the cold
winter months, each cycle causing the bourbon to achieve more and more of
the nuances that come with age (isn't that what happens to all of us?) as it
patiently awaits its final destination after bottling: your house.
Every distillery has their own proprietary "recipe" for making bourbon,
from the source of the water to the method of bottling. There are
so many factors that can influence the quality and character of
the final product; factors like quality and source of the water,
characteristics of the grains and malt (where did they come from?), method
of creating the grain flour (crushed or roller milled), strain and source of
yeast, method of distilling and even shape of the stills, origin and quality
of the oak in the barrels, type of warehouse (wood, metal or stone),
position in the warehouse (near the floor or ceiling, edge or center of the
warehouse) only begin to give one an idea of how difficult it can be to
produce a premium bourbon with consistency and character.
It is this incredible variety of
endless possibilities and
variations that make Bourbon whiskey one of the most interesting
classifications of distilled spirits to explore.
One has to wait years
before the final determination can be made, and all the while, some of
the bourbon -- about two or three percent per year -- is continually
evaporating into the surrounding environs of the warehouse and beyond.
Known in the industry as "angel's share", it is forever lost. Surely,
there are happy angels in heaven; they get to sample some of the best
bourbon made! When
deemed ready, the barrel-aged bourbon is often married with other barrels
commensurate with the qualifications set forth by the master distiller, and
cut with pure water to achieve the proper proof prior to bottling.
Do yourself a favor and, at
the very least, visit one of the many fine distilleries on the
Bourbon Trail
in Kentucky. You just might find yourself converted to a connoisseur
of fine Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky... enjoy!
 |
|